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The
church of St. John the Baptist, built entirely by hand, is loyal testimony
both of the skills of its builders and the determination of the local
inhabitants, who witnessed the construction of their place of worship.
It was Francisco Gourié Marrero and the parish priest, Francisco
Cárdenes Herrera, who had the idea of building the new temple.
The Board approved the project presented by Catalan architect Manuel Vega
y March in 1908, and commissioned architect Fernando Navarro to supervise
the construction process.
The church is now on the same site as the original parish, built on April
18, 1515 by Don Fernando Vázquez de Arce, the Bishop of the Canary
Islands. The old temple deteriorated badly, and was too small to house
the current population of Arucas, and it was demolished in 1909 so that
the new church could be built.
Building started on March 19, 1909 and it was consecrated in 1917. Building
continued, however, for nearly another sixty years. The style chosen by
Vega y March was neo-Gothic. 
The church, with a centralised ground plan, has two different heights
and is characterised by its four facades framed by two pointed towers.
The principal facade looks out over the Plaza de San Juan. However, access
is through the west face, and the interior of the building is laid out
accordingly. The southern facade, which looks out over the Parque de la
Paz, is based on a similar architectural design, whereas the eastern wall
is of less artistic significance.
When we enter the doorway which leads to the interior of the temple, we
find, on both sides of the main door, two inscriptions commemorating the
date when the first stone was laid and the date when the church was consecrated.
This facade consists of a large doorway formed by pointed arches, beneath
a row of small windows below an enormous ball flower seven metres in diameter
and a gable with a vaulted niche in the centre, all crowned by a cross.
In turn, the entire facade is guarded by the Clock Tower (S-W) and the
Baptistery Tower (N-W), both of them octagonal and of different widths.
The images in the niches are: the Virgin and Child (South), St. Joseph
and Child (West) and St. Sebastian (North). They were sculpted in white
stone by Ramón Bastús.
The southern facade is distinguished by a nearly 180-feet high (60 metres)
bell tower built on the south-east corner. The building work on this bell
tower was supervised by Rafael Massanet. Work started on the foundations
in 1930, and it was completed in 1977. We have to thank the hard work
of the builders for the configuration of this enormous stone structure,
and the beauty of its decorations. The most important of these so-called
“master builders” included Sebastián Quesada, Miguel
Santana, Pedro Morales Déniz and Francisco Santana.
INTERIOR
The
temple is an interesting artistic legacy in itself. The building forms
a nearly perfect square, to which a semi-circular deambulatory has been
added on the eastern side, together with two narrow rectangles on the
northern and southern sides, to house the side doors.
The stained glass windows are an outstanding feature. They were installed
between 1916 and 1928, as a result of the relationship between Francisco
Gourié and Maumejean et Fréres. The Church of St. John the
Baptist was the first in Gran Canaria with stained glass windows manufactured
by this French firm.
The works of art housed by the Church include the Christ on the Cross
which presides over the main altar, which dates from the end of the 16th
century. As we enter the Church, and to our right, we find the Carmen
Chapel, part of the Clock Tower. Light enters the stained glass windows
which represent, among others, the Virgin of Mt. Carmel and Father Antonio
María Claret, in commemoration of a visit he made to Arucas in
1848. The remains of parish priest Francisco Cárdenas are buried
here, as a tribute to his enthusiastic work when the temple was built.
The neo-Gothic style altarpiece enthrones an image of the Virgin of Mt.
Carmel. On each side there is a small pedestal with St. Elijah with the
sword (to the left) and Saint Theresa (to the right). The Chapel of St.
John the Baptist, rectangular in shape, houses an image of the saint on
a small altar. The image was sculpted in Malaga, and exhibited for public
worship on Sunday, June 23, 1848. When we cross the side door, we find
the Chapel of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, containing images of St. Lucia
and St. Sebastian. Our attention is particularly attracted to St. Lucia,
because of the exquisite gold leaf floral motifs on her robes.
The centre of the deambulatory is given over to a chapel dedicated to
the Passion of Christ, forming a semi-apse with a stained glass window.
Facing the neo-Gothic altarpiece we find a fine image of Christ Recumbent,
by the local sculptor Manuel Ramos González (1899-1971). Made in
wood, around 1940, it is renowned for its elegance and the expressive
power of the figure’s head.
In the Chapel of the Virgin of the Rosary, in the north-eastern tower,
we find an image of the Virgin of the same name, sculpted by Canary Island
artist Juan Manuel de Silva from the wood of a cypress tree growing in
the garden of the Dominican Convent of St. Peter, Martyr, in Las Palmas
de Gran Canaria.
The Chapel of St. Francis of Assisi contains the only Baroque altarpiece
in the Church, probably from the 18th century .
We finally come to the Baptistery Chapel, which houses important artistic
items behind its bars. The centre houses a font which dates from 1862.
The stone used was taken from the Lomo de Tomás de León
quarries. Three magnificent paintings hang on its walls, all by Canary
Island artist Cristóbal Hernández de Quintana (1651-1725),
a panel representing the Virgin and Child next to a painting of St. Joseph
and Child and a painting of the Holy Family.
To summarise, the Church of St. John the Baptist is well worth visiting,
not only because of the grandeur of its stone structure which has often
led to it being referred to as a “cathedral”, but also because
of the artistic treasures it houses.
Guía
Histórico Artística de Arucas ©
Alicia Hernández Padrón

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