| |
The
origins of what used to be Arehuc or Arehucas go back to the pre-Hispanic
age. In fact, the name comes from the native term Arehucas or a similar
word. The settlement was destroyed in the first raid by conqueror Juan
Rejón in 1479. Two years later, the famous chief Doramas lost his
life in the famed "Battle of Arucas", at the hands of Pedro
de Vera, Juan Rejó n’s
successor. After the conquest, the place was populated, largely at the
beginning of the 16th century, by a large number of knights who obtained
land and water when the islands were distributed. It appears that Arucas
had already been founded by 1503. The town started to grow from a small
settlement around St. John’s chapel, on the site now occupied by
the Church of the same name. The development of Arucas stemmed from two
different settlements, leading to the “upper” and the “lower”
town.
The road, largely used for processions, joining St. John’s Church
to St. Peter’s Chapel – in La Goleta -, and passing St. Sebastian’s
Chapel on the way, became the main artery on which the urban structure
of Arucas is based; the town was then an assortment of cave-dwellings,
earthen houses, larger houses and estates built with no regard to planning,
the layout of which is now evident in the series of land rights, alleyways
and roads modelling the town’s urban perspectives.
In the second half of the 19th century, Arucas flourished and grew, largely
as a result of the wealth produced by breeding cochineal bugs. In 1868,
during the September revolution, St. Sebastian’s and St. Peter’s
chapel was destroyed, leaving an empty site where the Town Hall, the Market
and the new civic square would later be built between 1875 and 1882. In
the last ten years of that century, the main street, or Calle Real, was
realigned (this project coincided with Arucas being awarded the category
of a municipality), and many of its one or two-storey dwellings were replaced
with large stone houses. The street was enlarged to form what is now Calle
Francisco Gourié, in the only known town planning project in the
19th century. The beautiful large buildings that we can now see along
both these streets were built over a very short period of time, with the
wealth derived from the sugar trade, which, as we have seen, lasted until
1910. This is when Arucas became more or less like it is today, and it
is because of these buildings that it was declared to be a Historic Artistic
Centre on December 10, 1976. 
This was also a time of growth in the northern districts, basically Bañaderos
and Cardones. The former, known as early as the mid-19th century as a
bathing place next to the “Fuente Agria” (Sour Spring), boomed
after completion of St. Peter’s Church (1878) – to where worship
moved from Arucas – which generated an urban centre around the square,
with some two-storey buildings with patios, built at the beginning of
the century, and a few others along the road to the towns in the north-west.
In Cardones, on the south face of the hill – and also on the old
road from Tenoya to Cruz de Pineda and on to the north -, St. Isidore’s
Church, re-built early in this century, was the final touch to a series
of south-north roads which are now dotted with what are nearly always
earthen dwelling. Both these districts benefited from another period of
growth between 1920 and 1930, with the same architectural models.
It was possible throughout the 19th century when the urban structure of
El Cerrillo and La Goleta was established as we know them today. Although
the latter is the origin of the “upper” town, there is little
evidence of the development of these districts prior to the last century.
That was when a narrow row of houses appeared between the road up to Firgas
and the irrigation channel bringing water from Las Madres. These houses
appeared all along the road, and varied from galleries with tiled roofs
to large houses. Here is where we can still find a series of flour mills
which, until the mid-20th century, were driven by the water in the irrigation
channel.
Along all the roads – especially the one from Arucas to the north
west of the island, through Bañaderos – and ancient trails
(“caminos reales”), we can find a large number of country
homes and estates dating from the 17th or 18th centuries, such as the
Carril, Trasmontaña and Cruz de Pineda estates on the trail mentioned
earlier. They are the centre of the large estates established after the
conquest, which flourished not only in the two periods mentioned (the
19th and 20th centuries) but also when they were exclusively dedicated
to the banana trade in the period between the wars and up to 1950. In
fact it was during this decade that some of the best buildings appeared.
These architectural complexes – main building plus service buildings,
stables and stores – are traditionally “L” or “U”
shaped with walled-in open areas, which are models of an alternative to
typical urban dwellings.
The structure of the irrigation system was of enormous importance in Arucas.
Most of the network of irrigation channels that carried water from Firgas,
initially for the sugar cane crops and to drive the “upper”
town sugar cane mill mechanisms, are still preserved. At the start of
the century, estate land was already being watered next to budding Arucas.
Since then, the Water Owners’ Association has built a veritable
“architecture of water” with a large number of channels, cut-off
mechanisms and distribution boxes, or “cantoneras” –
some of them very important, like the one at “Las Chorreras”-,
and finally, at the end of the 19th and start of the 20th century, the
large reservoirs in the Pinto ravine. All the above is a valuable heritage
for the island.

|